The phenomenon — and there is no other word for Chin Chin — continues at the queue-tastic eatery that put Flinders Lane on every tourist’s must-visit map. But five years on Chin Chin’s charms are more fully realised by locals, for Benjamin Cooper’s revamped menu — to go with a recent room refresh and overhaul of the GoGo bar downstairs — is so filled to bursting with good things to eat you could come back two dozen times and still eat something new. And it will be delicious.

New highlights include a duck larb of brow-mopping yet refined heat, and savoury egg noodles plied with sweet bug meat. Salads remain a must, whether punchy nahm jim-dressed glass noodles with crunchy prawn dumplings, or a zingy green papaya salad with tamarind bite.

Staff keeps the food — and sharply curated booze — coming fast, and charm the pan-generational crowd with humour and skill. While its imitators are many, there is only one Chin Chin. And it’s great.

Must eat dish: bug tail stir fry