The cool, stylishly grungy Iku Yakitori in Burleigh Heads is a package worth getting excited about. In addition to the broad selection of yakitori, which includes skewers of Japanese specialties such as skin, liver, oyster, cartilage and hearts, there’s a “bites” section with the likes of house pickles, and organic local silken tofu, a “raw” offering of beef tataki and sashimi, bigger plates including fried chicken and wagyu sirloin, plus rice dishes and miso.

Spicy edamame dip with deep-fried wonton crisps ($8) is like the Japanese version of guacamole and corn chips with the puffy, bubbly wontons as addictive as crack, while the dip has just the right amount of subtle heat.

Simply stunning, though, is the ocean trout ($19) from the raw section of the menu, which provides two cuts of the meltingly fresh fish in a ponzu sauce. Just as good is the Iku oyakodon ($12), the saucy traditional rice dish of chicken and onions with a raw egg yolk cracked on top, offering complexity and comfort without heaviness.

Of course it would be wrong to go to a yakitori bar without ordering the main event, so we sampled some tsukune ($10) and tail ($10). The tsukune had a lovely texture, but were a little underseasoned, while the tail was perfectly cooked with all the sweetness and fattiness of the back end of the bird.

A tight but cracking drinks list with weekly changing cocktails, interesting sakes and specialty wines are well matched to the food, while service is equally on point.

Must-eat dish: Edamame dip with wonton crisps