Scott Pickett is tearing down walls.

He’s closed his fine-dining flagship ESP and in 2019 it’ll be replaced by an expanded Estelle Bistro, when the dividing wall of the neighbouring venues comes down to create a bigger casual-leaning offering.

In the meantime, it’s business as usual at this approachable diner. Goat’s cheese churros sticky with truffle honey are still the best way to start, or perhaps a charcuterie plate at the bar with a Bubble & Squeak prosecco cocktail.

Or settle in for crispy-skinned Humpty Doo barramundi freshened with cucumber ribbons and kohlrabi, and a slab of baked chocolate for pudding – heavy going for one, but perfect to share.

Must-eat dish: Goat’s cheese churros