It’s yet another win for the Con Christopoulos/Josh Brisbane/Ian Curley dream team — they of The European, Kirk’s, City Wine Store — with French Saloon. Within a simple, light-filled, handsome space — all rustic whitewashed floorboards, mismatched bentwood chairs — they’re serving some serious twists on “bistronomy”, washed down with on-theme wines from the cellar downstairs or pitch-perfect aperitifs from behind the long zinc bar.

It might be Petaluma trout served with pickled and dried fennel and a lick of oyster cream that shows the kitchen’s smarts, or a bright salad of mozzarella and apple and leek that shows it’s not short of inspiration. The daily changing butcher’s cut of steak served with mustard and hand-cut chips shows simple takes great skill, which the tight team delivers in spades. Hit the rooftop courtyard for balmy nights with a glass of crisp rose for the win for all.

Must eat dish: ocean trout