Fragrant steamed duck buns; a towering salad of poached chicken, watercress, green chilli and sesame; and an eye-wateringly spicy pork and kimchi stew are hallmarks of this casual two-level Asian restaurant and bar, with dual frontage in trendy Fish Lane.

The upstairs eatery, sister to Madame Wu in Eagle Street, opened in mid-2017 and offers banquets and $30 pp set lunches, but its generously portioned street-food can be ordered a la carte.

Ho fun (large, flat Chinese rice noodles) are bursting with spinach and tofu, topped with chunky chilli and black bean oil – a delicious starter that’s difficult to eat with chopsticks – while Cape Grim stir-fried beef, accompanied by gelatinous black fungus and crisp garlic shoots, is a tender though relatively tame main course. Not so the pork and kimchi stew, which is dense, hot and nicely offset with soft organic tofu.

Of the three desserts, fresh watermelon is recommended to aid digestion, while the deep-fried ice-cream (more like a parfait) is decadent with raspberry chilli caramel. The wine list is sound but a few more fruity styles would complement the cuisine. Service is swift, affable and well-informed. A low-key ambience with cane chairs and Asian knick-knacks allow the beautifully presented street-food to shine.

Must-eat dish: pork and kimchi stew with organic tofu