A simple, light-filled first-floor loft with distressed timber floors and bentwood chairs, it’s a gorgeous spot to imbibe, catch up and kick back as the city bustles below.

Modern French food minus the fuss and formality is the order of the day here, with gutsy flavours and generous serves.

Mains star, like the John Dory, two gloriously tanned fillets topping tender borlotti beans in a punchy herb-flecked mussel cassoulet, or the steak frites, a cracking rendition teaming hand-cut chips with Cape Grim beef enriched with a luxe Roquefort butter.

Book-end those with a hit of caviar from the extensive menu spanning France to the Yarra Valley, and classic desserts like a light and lovely salted caramel Madeliene or a text-book crème caramel.

The mostly-French wine list sings with affordable drops, while fun cocktails add to the conviviality.

Must-eat dish:  Steak frites