There’s something wonderfully honest and homely about a meal at Fred’s, with a genuine sense of abundance. Sure, the fit-out is swisher than most of our abodes, but the food of ex-Chez Panisse chef Danielle Alvarez is like dining at a dear friends home – who happens to be one hell of a cook, of course. One of the jewels in the Merivale crown, Fred’s has helped breathe new dining life into Oxford Street (with the help of Saint Peter and The Paddington) and not only keeps the locals well fed, but the whole city too.

Housed above subterranean cocktail lounge Charlie Parker’s, and behind a cute little bar at the entrance, Fred’s is a light, summer holiday of a venue, where high ceilings, heavy linens, oak finishes, candles and light greys and pastels provide the backdrop for chefs who bounce around a kitchen island cooking the produce de jour over flames. Alvarez’s menu is all about local, seasonal and sustainable – but her selective sourcing is underpinned by wonderful cookery.

Meyer lemon and chilli add spice and sour to tuna tartare topped with onion and white soy. Borlotti beans, tomato, croutons and pippies provide the platform for baby octopus to shine, while an alluring seaweed butter adds depth to the sweet seduction of grilled King George Whiting.

Whipped creme fraiche tops a stunningly simple Meyer lemon and quince shaker tart that will leave you grinning until you visit again.

With a wine list to be reckoned with and sharp, but friendly service, Sydney is privileged to have such joy and enthusiasm as Alvarez brings to the art of hospitality.

Must eat dish: Lamb leg ‘à la ficelle’ & grilled rack with mustard, breadcrumbs & cime di rapa