A recent menu overhaul has seen the biggest changes on the plate since its 2016 reopening, and snacking is stand out.

Evoking a posh sausage roll, rich house-made black pudding is wrapped in wafer-thin pastry and dotted with an astringent red cabbage ketchup for a brilliant bar snack. Ditto the chicken and caviar, cubes of chook – juicy as a gossip column – bathed in buttermilk, then fried and topped with crème fraiche and caviar for a high-end take on a fast-food fave.

Fish and chips still miss the mark – too much batter, too little freshness – and while service was sharp and desserts artful, wallet-busting pricing may curb return visits.

Must eat dish: Black pudding roll