The brainchild of celebrated Sydney restaurateur Sam Christie, there was a time when it was almost impossible to secure a seat at the modern Thai eatery. Now, with thousands of dishes over the pass and a reservations policy in place, ironically the restaurant isn’t heaving like it’s 2005 – but the Longrain team are still coming to the party. Betel leaves, a singular flavour-packed bite, have graced the menu in numerous incarnations over the years, and on this visit, a topping of smoked rainbow trout with tangy green mango is a new favourite.

The prawn betel leaf has been replaced by a vegetarian option comprising of yam bean, Thai basil and coconut that, while still offering good flavour, leaves me wistfully dreaming of the superlative combos of previous years. The real clincher is the caramelised pork hock with five spice and chilli vinegar; it’s a menu staple and the proof is in the pork, the slow-braised meat pulling effortlessly away from the bone every time. Silky salmon steamed to medium in banana leaf and served with a rich red curry sauce is a lovely light dish.

Service is savvy and prompt – but gosh, I do wish they’d fix that slippery wooden floor.

 Must-eat dish: Caramelised pork hock with five spice and chilli vinegar