They come for the art – displayed in a marvellous purpose built museum – and the wine, sampled in a state of the art cellar door.

Now visitors to Tarrawarra Estate are embracing its restaurant again. Handsomely refurbished, with a new chef (Mark Ebbels) making best use of the estate’s expanded kitchen garden, this superbly situated dining room is serving food worthy of winemaker Clare Halloran’s celebrated pinot noir and chardonnay.

Ebbels’ winter menu impressed with its high colour, big flavours and emphasis on vegetables. A soused rainbow trout starter was ornamented with beetroot and black lime. Rare kangaroo, served ruby red, came tumbled with shiitake mushrooms and celeriac. And crispy pork belly was buoyed by Tuscan kale and turnip. Dessert could well be Tarrawarra’s trump card. Let’s hope the kitchen sticks with its modish chocolate mousse, artfully displayed on a swirl of strawberry gum.

Service could be tighter – on a freezing afternoon, staff seemed oblivious to the restaurant’s waning log fire – and techno music struck us as inappropriate for a largely 40 plus crowd. But make no mistake, Tarrawarra Estate is worth exploring.

Must eat dish: Rare kangaroo, broccoli, celeriac