Ask any Sydneysider with Greek heritage and they’ll tell you Alpha is the real deal, just like yiayia used to make. Kicking off with a wine from Thessaloniki using grape of the moment Assyrtiko and a bubbling plate of haloumi saganaki sticky with fragrant thyme honey, we’re not about to argue the point.

Moving to moussaka, though, the direction seems to take a steer away from the traditional, with thick rounds of eggplant sandwiching seared sea scallops and taramasalata; it’s not to our taste, and is the sore thumb sticking out of an otherwise fairly homely menu.

A beautiful chicken kapama, perfectly juicy, is absolutely wonderful with its companions of almond and tomato pilaf, and a sprinkling of feta and okra. Balance the richness with a super fresh horiatiki salad – cubes of cucumber and feta with wedges of tomato and capsicum, plus sharp olives and a healthy amount of oregano – and you’ll leave happy.

There’s the option of choosing Yiayia’s table menu for groups of four or more, and not only is it a succinct journey through Greek cuisine, at $65 per person without wine and $105 with matching drops, it has to be one of the most affordable set menus of this level in the city.

With casual, friendly service and the welcoming and warm décor, plus the gorgeous Beta bar upstairs, Alpha should certainly remain one of your hits in the city.

Must eat dish: Chicken kapama