It’s a dessert as pretty as the view across the lawn to the lake filled with paddling ducks. On a cloud of whipped mascarpone of restrained sweetness, a triptych of strawberries — fresh, dried, compressed — joins a drizzle of pedro ximinez and buttery shortbread rounds.

Within the heritage-listed castle that is All Saints estate, chef Simon Arkless is used to competing with his surrounds — and knows how to command attention.

He does this with calm, confident cooking — a generous tranche of estate lamb served with a field of fresh spring veg, for instance, or kaiserfleisch-wrapped quail on creamy parsnip — with just the right amount of flair.

Equally considered, a lovely leather-bound wine list that features All Saints estate wines with minimal mark ups, along with judicious interest from elsewhere, as is service with charm that retains a welcome air of country calm.

Must eat dish: strawberry shortcake