Puffing Billy almost terminates at the front door of The Independent in Gembrook.

But daytrippers expecting to find tea and scones in this one-time garage are in for a surprise. The Independent flies the flag for Argentina, an unexpected sight among the mountain ash and ferns, and is delighting customers with lime-cured scallops, flaky pork empanadas and cinnamon doughnuts.

Owner and chef Mauro Callegari rules the open kitchen and offers two fixed price options, but going a la carte lets you wander further afield, sharing small and medium dishes including palm heart ceviche and smoked maple carrot, before tackling the ‘platos grandes’.

Slow-cooked Gippsland lamb shoulder is now a signature at The Independent, but our serve of grass-fed short rib, grill-blistered and frilled with fat, was a monster-sized marvel.

Pity about the service. On a busy weekend, dishes arrived out of sequence and were rarely hot enough. The drinks list has improved, with plenty of non-alcoholic options to bolster those beers. But if you’re still yearning for Devonshire tea… hop back on that train.

Must eat dish: Beef short rib, chimichurri and potato