With assured service from Shelly Greaves and the ever-competent Jake Cooley in the kitchen, it’s one of the suburb’s safest bets. Watched over by a 2m mural of namesake Jimmy Wah, there’s nothing in this streamlined operation to detract from the rightful focus of vibrant Vietnamese fare.

Gluten and dairy-free diners will be in their element, with most of the mid-priced menu up for grabs. The signature share plates are almost mandatory fodder for a first visit. Crunchy-shelled spring rolls with nuoc cham and Vietnamese pancake to cup in the crisp freshness of lettuce, play with texture so there’s never a boring bite.

Artful, colour-splashed plating takes barbecued local prawns with turmeric and lemon emulsion into fine dining territory, while the mirin and white soy broth lapping at snapper and crab dumplings is addictive.

It’s hard to choose between the creatively themed cocktails and considered wine list, but you can rely on advice from any floor team under Shelly’s wing.

Must-eat dish: Vietnamese pancake, duck larb, pickled cucumber, lettuce, herbs