85 Miskin St, Toowong, Brisbane: every element is considered

Showcasing contemporary cooking methods while celebrating local, seasonal produce, this fine diner brings top-notch fare to the ’burbs, writes Anooska Tucker-Evans.

This is the type of neighbourhood fine diner any suburb would love to have.

Chef-owner Brent Farrell prides himself on celebrating local, seasonal ingredients, from passionfruit grown on vines at the back of the old cottage the restaurant is housed in, to fish caught along the Queensland coast.

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The dishes are technique-driven, showcasing multiple cooking methods on a plate, such as bar-marked, blushing lamb loin alongside slow-cooked, caramelised lamb belly, joined by a tart, red grape sorbet and smoked goat’s chevre to cut through the richness of the meat. Or perhaps, glazed beef cheek next to crimson eye fillet on a sweet caramelised onion puree with pieces of fried prosciutto, puddles of beef jus and a few blanched spears of asparagus, which add freshness to the hearty plate.

Every element is considered, and while there are often many, it never seems like it’s too much.

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Desserts read as more of a list of elements on a plate than a dish, but the charming and chatty front of house team happily explains the various components and offers advice.

The winner is a simple plate reminiscent of a deconstructed snowman, his head a creamy but clean passionfruit ice cream with passionfruit seeds as the eyes, his body quenelles of cream cheese mousse – like whipped frosting off a carrot cake – while shavings of macadamia and shattered meringue form the snow, alongside dots of tart passionfruit curd.

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Although the ageing restaurant is a little bland as an overall space, it’s comfortable and homely, ideal for families celebrating something special.

A generous and interesting wine list with a strong Queensland representation reinforces Farrell’s commitment to local produce and what makes this place a Brisbane favourite.

85 Miskin St Toowong QLD 4066

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