This is the type of neighbourhood fine diner any suburb would love to have.

Chef-owner Brent Farrell prides himself on celebrating local, seasonal ingredients, from passionfruit grown on vines at the back of the old cottage the restaurant is housed in, to fish caught along the Queensland coast.

The dishes are technique-driven, showcasing multiple cooking methods on a plate, such as bar-marked, blushing lamb loin alongside slow-cooked, caramelised lamb belly, joined by a tart, red grape sorbet and smoked goat’s chevre to cut through the richness of the meat. Or there’s glazed beef cheek next to crimson eye fillet on a sweet caramelised onion puree with pieces of fried prosciutto, puddles of beef jus and blanched asparagus spears.

Every element is considered and, while there are often many, each dish avoids feeling overwrought.

When it comes to dessert, the winner is a simple plate of creamy but clean passionfruit ice cream, quenelles of cream cheese mousse – like whipped frosting on a carrot cake – with shattered meringue alongside dots of tart passionfruit curd.

Although the ageing restaurant’s decor is a little underwhelming, it’s comfortable and homely and no doubt part of what keeps this place packed with a loyal crowd.

Must-eat dish: The lamb two ways
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