While its tired fit-out could certainly do with a freshen up, this owner-operated restaurant from chef Brent Farrell still has plenty to love. In an old Queensland cottage, it’s a suburban eatery offering neighbourhood value but CBD culinary aspirations.

There’s a multitude of degustations at lunch and dinner for those chasing a special experience, as well as traditional a la carte, with dishes ranging from the dated to the completely contemporary.

Quirk is found in Farrell’s reimagination of the classic panzanella salad replacing ripe tomatoes with watermelon and adding fried haloumi and dehydrated olives; while glazed beef cheek heralds tradition served with a quenelle of mashed potato, mushroom ragu and a sticky, sweet jus. The menu also crisscrosses from Asian to Europe, with duck liver pate sitting alongside Wagyu beef wontons with dashi broth.

The wine list is long and offbeat with the by-the-glass section favouring sweet and fortified drops, while the bottle option has the occasional eye-opener. But wine connoisseurs might prefer to BYO. Service is smart and the staff well-drilled, making this a restaurant that keeps its customers loyal.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Beef cheeks