Lively modern Vietnamese food, killer sips and tropical vibes make this Uncle one relative you’ll want to visit more often.

Slightly more upmarket than the St Kilda original, this chic first-floor perch up the Paris end of Collins Street leaves a good first impression, with swift service and quality snacking.

A disc of white bread goes luxe, lavished with buffalo ricotta, Yarra Valley salmon roe and chewy-sweet-salty candied anchovies for a two-bite textural riot, while crowd-pleasing banh mi – tofu, soft-shell crab and crispy pigs’ ear – inspire orders of “one of each, please.”

Delve deeper with mackerel and mussels amped with XO sauce, matched with food-friendly wines mainly from Victoria or cool cocktails like the Uncle Mary, raucous with Szechuan and chilli-infused vodka.

Must-eat dish: Candied anchovies, ricotta and roe on Wonder White