Beef may be the focus at this modern steakhouse and rooftop bar, but the Gold Coast restaurant brings far more to the table than just quality bovine. Up a stairwell lined with Batman-esque cityscape wallpaper and flanked by heavy red drapes, lies the equally dramatic restaurant: opulent, dark and moody anchored around a red velvet, U-shaped banquet and brimming wine cellar. A sharp, switched-on and pre-emptive team of affable waitstaff get diners started with a drink from the list, which includes a smart – if slightly predictable – group of wines by the glass, and a more exciting cocktail offering with a mix of traditional favourites and well-executed signature drinks.

But for carnivores, it’s all about the steak and there’s a grass or grain-fed version for everyone at all price points, including a Gina Rinehart’s 9+ marble scored wagyu number for $129. While the steak may arrive expertly cooked, it’s the entrees that steal the show. Try, for example, the fish tartare with rings of jalapenos, pickled cucumber strands, dots of aioli and clusters of ocean trout caviar, delivering beautiful acid notes and pops of salt mellowed by a creamy mayonnaise.

Or perhaps chef-owner Daniel Ridgeway’s signature dish, Moreton Bay bug and prawn tortellini, featuring three just al dente pasta parcels filled with a coarsely ground seafood blend to create texture and mouthfeel, while a creamy sauce spiked with mustard fruits delivers hits of aniseed.

Desserts are a little traditional and underwhelming, so best to fill up on savouries, with mains also including everything from confit duck to seafood de jour.

Must-eat dish: Moreton Bay bug tortellini