The pleasure of this Grossi empire street-level diner is in its simplicity, giving top ingredients and classic flavours star billing across power lunching or date-night wooing.

The Tuscan fare off the grill is a thrill, be it swordfish, Milawa chook, veal rib or Hopkins River porterhouse that’s expertly salted, rested and charred, and served with just a burnished cheek of lemon.

Pasta? Twirl the silky, yolk-yellow pappardelle with a ragu rich with roasted duck leg and porcini, before choosing from arty creations like the Jaffa-esque chocolate ganache tart topped with orange sorbet for dessert.

Must-eat dish: Pappardelle, duck, porcini