If restaurants run on passion alone, Ides is here to stay.

Born from monthly pop-up dinners helmed by then-Attica sous chef Peter Gunn, this is his first solo venture. It’s an uneven experience yet dynamic and engaging enough to hook you in and want to chart its evolution.

Six courses (four savoury, two sweet, plus bread and a salty-good house-made peanut butter) change regularly and are delivered to your table by the chefs themselves, chests puffed with pride and passion. Two hours and you’re done — love that timing.

There’s energy in the food, even if it can sometimes lack finesse. Take the gussied-up prawn and avocado slice that, while supremely tasty, could be the cover of an impress-at-your-next-dinner-party cookbook.

Other dishes smash it out of the park. The lamb neck was comfort cooking with fine-dining polish; slightly sticky, butter-soft meat wrapped in parsley and dressed with mustard seeds and peas. Brown sugar ice cream with a tart matcha sherbet and fried basil flies the flag for desserts done good.

Turn a blind eye to the office-esque fitout and bad art, and instead see Ides as an exciting work in progress.

Must eat dish: lamb neck