In a year when we fell in love — again — with all that’s good about French food, Petit Tracteur (from the 10 Minutes by Tractor team down the road) arrived to remind us about all that’s good about French bistro classics served in bucolic surrounds.

It could be something as simple as the steak — blushingly pink entrecote served with good bearnaise and great pommes frites — or as rustic as the farmhouse terrine that’s dense and satisfyingly meaty, and winning the crowds over. Or it could be other well-executed classics: the crisp skinned duck a l’orange, perhaps, or the deep sticky richness of red wine-braised beef, but it’s probably the tarte tatin that has the Peninsula most aflutter. Bread hot from the oven highlights thoughtfulness in the kitchen, service (with an authentic accent or two) is efficiently friendly while the glorious chardonnay and pinot-focused list — including the great estate wines — has Oz and international interest at all levels.

Must eat dish: tarte tatin