Nestled in the vibrant dining precinct of Angel Place, Bacco Osteria is an intimate, mid-level dining space by head chef Scott Williams (Movida) and executive chef Andrew Cibej (Vini, Berta). The space acts as a trendy espresso bar on weekdays, serving up Little Marionette coffee, house-baked breads, paninis and pizza by the slice to mention a few, but their evening fare focuses on more refined flavours.

It had been a long work day, so my co-pilots and I go straight for the stracciatella, a silky cow’s milk cheese which looks like a soft, silky, exploded burrata. It comes dressed in fruity olive oil with finely sliced crunchy ciabatta bread. It’s a strong start. Next up, the mound of tuna tartare with horseradish. It’s well seasoned with dried herbs, olive oil and lemon juice, and is quickly scooped up by crispy pasta fritta. The wine list is extensive and mostly of Italian origin, so naturally we opt for the Vigneto Luciano Saetti Rosso, a sparkling red wine from the Emilia region of Italy.

Bacco is renowned for their house-made pastas, and the pillowy gnocchi glistening with crushed pistachios and shaved pecorino cheese is a real crowd pleaser, as is the night’s special; a sweet artichoke-filled ravioli. The pasta is silky, and the sauce, buttery and luxurious.

As far as protein options go, Bacco offers a humble five dishes including a fish of the day. We attempt the flat iron steak with burnt onion and a quenelle of anchovy butter, which has just the right salty kick. The cut was slightly gamey for our taste, and cooked well for a medium-rare attempt. Luckily, we were distracted by our delight for the crisp grilled Roman beans served with a snowy mountain shaving of macadamias.

Bacco does a simple Italian well, and while there both high and low points, the house-made pasta selection and wine bible makes it a great weeknight feed.

Must eat dish: Gnocchi, pistachio, pecorino