To be honest, Ashley Davis had us at the schmaltz.

For what, truly, could be better to schmear on warmed sourdough than a mix of pork and duck fat studded with crisp crackling and whipped through parsley and dill?

It’s just one of the fat-friendly reasons to visit chef Ashley Davis’s first go at running his own place, and while locals love the drop-in-for-a-bite vibe, this “journey through Europe” has much to offer those from farther afield.

Such as the housemade kasespaetzle — little twists of pasta served in the namesake copper pot, tossed through gruyere and topped with crisp shallots — that’s a signature for every comfortingly good reason.

Or snails that come swimming in a sea of garlicky butter, or excellent pappardelle to twirl through a generous ragout of Great Ocean duck. Or indeed the crème brulee that’s simply best-in-class.

Add equally Eurocentric wines — and some seriously smart beers — and you have an all-rounder that’s worth seeking out.

Must eat dish: kasespaetzle