Opening late last year, Palermo is the fourth South American restaurant from the team behind San Telmo and Pastuso (a new 250-seat sibling, Asado, adds similar Argentinean swagger to Southbank). Firing up the parrilla grill and stoking the asado is Ollie Gould (ex-Stokehouse) who is dramatically roasting meats on the open fire while serving up a menu that treads the familiar meat- and- malbec path honed at San Telmo over the past seven-odd years.

Along with various cuts of cow expertly treated, there’s great grill-branded chorizo with deftly balanced spice, even better suckling pig croquettes, definitive beef empanadas and even a nice line in vegetables. The broccoli, for instance, charred soft and served with green chilli, anchovy and a dusting of parmesan, is the perfect way to eat your greens.

To finish, there’s the famous flan – a wickedly wobbly custard of duche de leche and salted peanut – which is outrageously sweet and decadently good.

With switched on service, an extensive range of Argentinean wines served in a handsome space that cleverly nods to theme (cow hides, vintage siphon bottles) and you have the complete package.

Must eat dish: House-made chorizo