Thirty years young, the Lake House dining room remains the quintessential country manor. Its comfortable opulence and understated elegance makes a long lunch – or longer dinner for those staying in-house – a celebratory affair.

Country-style generosity of spirit plays out in food that’s refined but not fussy. Best-in-season produce shines bright, and Alla Wolf Tasker – long a champion of ethical, sustainable, seasonal eating – ensures a meal here in Daylesford is as current and delicious as any you’d be served elsewhere in the state.

Whether you opt for four choose-your-own courses or settle in for the full tasting experience, you’re best warned not to fill up on the house spelt sourdough with smoked butter – it’s a challenge, for it’s so good – but you’ll want to ensure room for each one of the petit fours to end.

In between you might find kangaroo with mountain pepper sandwiched between flaxseed crackers, and smoked eel dashi adding depth to bug meat mousse wrapped in charred cabbage. Milking Farm Yard’s famed chicken comes with translucent prawn meat and a powerful sauce of its shell, while silken ocean trout with fennel custard is clever and elegant.

Vegetarians are looked after especially well, with such dishes as Meredith Goat’s custard with cucumber vichyoisse and the “chawanmushi” standalone signatures for good reason.

Lake House remains one of Victoria’s essential dining destinations.

Must eat: Ocean trout with fennel custard