Everywhere you look, restaurateurs are planting French flags.

When it opened in 2012, Bistro Gitan was ahead of that curve and judging by a midweek visit — when the place was heaving with wine-happy fortysomethings — co-owner-manager Edouard Reymond knows exactly who his target audience is.

Gitan (the name means “gypsy”) is described as “contemporary French’’, a moniker that allows chef Steve Nelson to cross borders. Italy rings bells with a “piccata” of chicken livers, pappardelle and balsamic, while chargrilled octopus with chickpeas and almond puree speaks of Spain. But make no mistake, France is still the heartland.

Be seduced by Gitan’s “petite’’ starters, such as freshly shucked oysters and escargots in roasted garlic butter. Then move into full Gallic mode with chargrilled flank steak (bavette) and onion rings; a mustard-crusted spatchcock coddled with savoy cabbage; and comforting gratin dauphinois (potato and cheese).

La pochouse, a fish dish from the Reymond family village, remains a star attraction, with Nelson lowering pearly white rockling onto mushrooms, bacon, sweet onions, sorrel and “natural cooking juices’’.

This lusty food — not quite as luscious as we remember — is matched by a sturdy wine list with a good number of drops by the glass, pichet and carafe. As for Gitan’s service, its agile and well informed.

Must eat dish: la pochouse