In the former site of the much-loved restaurant Vulcan’s in Blackheath – run by a former Vulcan’s chef, no less – Asian (mostly Japanese) ingredients are creatively fused with classic European technique at bustling local treasure Fumo. It’s hard to want to leave the house in the middle of winter in the mountains – but when you hear about a seasonal six-layered bombe ice cream slice, it’s time to don the puffer jacket and brave the cold.

You can tell you’ve left the city by the portion sizes alone: tenderised in buttermilk, a hearty entrée of chicken drumsticks is slow-braised until the meat is almost falling off the bone. Crunchy cucumber flecked with bonito (katsuoboshi) and a salty umeboshi plum is a punchy garnish. It’s enriching winter comfort food without feeling too decadent and heavy.

An immense flavour is teased out of a creamy soy and miso broth. The broth is the sauce for delicate green tea noodles that are made by hand in the small kitchen. The spiced duck confit is standout: tender fatty leg meat offset by a citrusy sauce and contrasted with a crunchy pickled kohlrabi, carrot and fennel salad with toasted sesame.

The menu requires explanation but the staff are well versed. Sansai is literally ‘mountain vegetables’ but here the term is cleverly describes locally sourced produce. Shochu, a unique Japanese spirit made from distilling sweet potato or rice, flavours a dense and delicious baked custard served with winter citrus and passionfruit. The food doesn’t feel overly finessed but it’s nourishing and wholesome, exactly what you’d expect in the mountains.

Oh, and then there’s that ice cream. Tonight’s version is layers of ice cream flavoured with blackberry, spiced rose, raspberry, mandarin and bay leaf, interspersed with crunchy walnut macaroon. And it’s absolutely worth leaving the house for.

Must-eat dish: Bombe ice cream slice