It’s been more than a year since industry veterans Joe Pavlovich and Alasdair France took the helm of the Bondi Trattoria and steered her out into Mediterranean waters, adding culinary port stops in Turkey, Spain and Greece.

One thing that hasn’t changed is the popularity of the sun-drenched terrace, which remains one of the most coveted spots on the coast for wave watching and spritz sipping.

When the winds pick up, abandon post and pop indoors where you’ll find a warmly lit dining room, as cosy as a country cucina.

Food is of the feelgood variety, with freshly caught frutti di mare served alongside house-made pizzas and home-style pastas, slicked in olive oil or steeped in rich, soupy broths.

Great catches include the buttery bugs topped with melty blots of buffalo mozzarella and the white tarama dip, doused with lemon oil, and dusted with fennel pollen and shavings of salt-licked bottarga.

Pizzas are handmade and formed from a one-year-old sourdough starter. The result is a thick and chewy base, which Pavlovich piles high with creamy, tangy fior di latte, ribbons of prosciutto or garlicky green dabs of cavolo nero pesto.

Wines are either from Italy or Italian varieties grown on home soil. There are cocktails too, including a rather fetching Poodle on the Beach, which sees punchy citrus notes of grapefruit, Australian vermouth and West Winds gin mingle well with the fresh sea air.

With two of the industry’s best on board, there’s nothing but smooth sailing ahead for the Bondi Trattoria.

Must-eat dish: Tarama dip, bottarga, lemon oil, fennel pollen, flatbread