It overlooks the Yarra River, but at Pure South Dining, you’re more likely to be thinking about the Derwent and the Tamar.

That’s because this Southbank stalwart, by the pedestrian bridge, is anchored in all things Tasmanian: from St Helens oysters and Robbins Island wagyu pastrami to Bass Strait scallops, King Island beef cheek and Pyengana cheddar.

The six-course ‘Chef’s Tour’ is good value at $115 and Pure South’s comfortable moodily lit dining room encourages a leisurely stay. But going a la carte can be rewarding, especially if chef David Hall has got ‘Cullen Skink’ on the menu. His elegant take on this Scottish classic glints with silvery mackerel.

However thoughtful, the execution of dishes is not always exact. Our Flinders Island wallaby, cooked rare, wallowed in an overly assertive native pepperberry sauce, while Jerusalem artichokes with goats curd and honey were ‘rested’ too long.

Pure South service is sturdy and the prices, for this side of the river, remain competitive.

Must eat dish: ‘Cullen Skink’ smoked mackerel, leek, herb veloute