For versatility and va-va-voom, there’s Ilona Staller.

The sister bistro to St Kilda stayer Cicciolina teams a fun fitout of zebra print and curvy booths in art deco surrounds with familiar yet well-designed food and great drinking.

Start right with ‘beestings’ – jalapenos filled with feta and pine nuts and given a whack of lime – then step it up to pappardelle, rich with confit duck and spicy merguez sausage, or maybe the slow-braised beef cheek with lardons and mash.

Or let the affable team hook you up with a three-course chef’s selection for $65.

Keenly priced across the board with fab daily specials, Ilona Staller attracts after-dark catch-ups with mates and dates, but is just as at home for family dining with a top little kid’s menu treating junior diners well.

Must-eat dish: Duck pappardelle