Long before every menu in town started name-checking their steaks, there was Adrian Richardson in his La Luna cool room dry-ageing his beef. And Richardson’s Rathdowne St bistro remains one of the best places to get your meat on with no better place to begin than the generous plate of smallgoods, made in-house, of course, executed with style.

Creamy ribbons of pancetta, subtly salty prosciutto, brilliant brawn and an ever-changing line up of salami served with sharp pickles is a winner on its own. Though if they have some pastrami on the go, do not miss its silken, marbled, spiced slices, for they are as good as it gets.

An impressive 60 days’ hanging adds umami depth to the range of steaks, from a 280g hanger, through 550g rib eye, all served with a jus of rich depth.

While boozehounds will find the tiramisu lacking in kick, there’s no faulting the glorious cracking crust that comes with the softly spoken brulee.

Little wonder, then, this remains one of the neighbourhood’s all-time favourites.

Must eat dish: housemade smallgoods