Step through the unassuming butcher shop with its hanging meats and hand-carved charcuterie and a hidden treasure awaits. Unexpectedly elegant, the elongated room glows amber: a banquette along one wall, a generously stocked bar the better part of the other, and a light-filled courtyard down the back.

It’s smart, sophisticated and surprising, just like its modern Australian share-style menu. Quality local produce is at the heart of all the dishes from the vegetarian offerings like charry broccolini with a nutty sesame sauce or pumpkin rotolo with burnt butter, to inventive meat creations like wild Stanthorpe kangaroo moulded into the shape of a tail and wrapped in dumpling pastry with a Nepalese peanut sauce, vibrant with fresh tomatoes. Let the obliging, welcoming staff help guide you on dish selection, while the bar staff are able to offer advice on wine pairings.

Queensland craft beer is a focus, but the mix of twisted classic cocktails command attention with everything from their signature mojito with grilled pineapple puree to their spiced old fashioned pre-batched and available on tap. Vaquero is a suburban restaurant with big city ambitions.

Must-eat dish: Kangaroo dumpling