It’s a cold midweek night and the joint is jumping. Who says Melbourne only favours the new? For the past 10 years, Gingerboy has been steaming hefty pork dumplings to swipe through green chilli relish, frying son-in-law eggs into gooey-yolked flavour bombs, and braising ox cheek into sticky submission, and the city-centric crowd can’t get enough.

It’s fun food executed with real style — the sour cabbage that cuts through the tamarind sweetness of that ox cheek inspired; the lovely coconut depth to the signature red duck curry as elegant as the meaty leg is crisp.

Sure, the room rocks a disco-tastic vibe that could do with updating — and paper napkins are at odds with $40 dishes — but such quibbles pale when there’s the city’s best san choi bao to eat, all savoury mince and crunchy water chestnut, heady lap cheong and slippery shiitake, brought to the table by some of the city’s most welcoming and accommodating staff. Gingerboy proves quality will never — ever — go out of style.

Must eat dish: duck san choi bao