It might still be the most famous Japanese restaurant in the world, but Nobu has lost some of the fusion-driven edge and top-shelf excitement that heralded its arrival at Crown more than a decade ago.

That doesn’t stop the crowds coming here for the signature miso cod, wagyu tacos, king crab tempura and California rolls, and to hit the sake list and make a night of it.

Sharp and knowledgeable service helps to navigate the extensive menu that has misses – a pub-level salad strewn with salmon skin; out-of-season asparagus crowning fine-if-forgettable pork belly – among the hits. Sushi and sashimi remains a highlight, along with such pretty dishes as a chilli-dusted scallop tiradito crowned with Japanese plum, and deftly dressed tuna tataki.

The wine list traverses the eye-watering – $32 for a glass of Veuve, ouch! – through a good range of more accessible $60-70 bottles nicely suited to the cuisine. It’s expensive, but, for many, Nobu still means Japanese and it continues to deliver a Big Night Out.

Must-eat dish: Scallop tiradito