A wood-fired oven flames in the kitchen, ready to churn out a menu replete with choices from wood-roasted mussels to wood-roasted cauliflower truffle. A crostini topped with a Cantabrian anchovy and peppers on crostini is a pleasant, fire-free starter, while the lightly roasted tomatoes on the bruschetta have an appealing smokiness. Crumbed, deep-fried sweet fleshed barramundi wings arrive with a hillock of aioli and like, the earlier dishes, on white paper doilies.

This touch is in keeping with the Euro vibe of lace curtains, distressed walls with an ancient looking mirror, black-painted brickwork and a polished concrete floor. Warmth is added via bentwood chairs, a vase of flowers and the moodily lit, copper-topped horseshoe shaped bar, from which the barman dispenses cocktails such as smoked negronis and wines from a clipped list with an emphasis on organic and low-intervention wines.

Overnight wood-roast pork shoulder in a puddle of lentil and vegetable broth is completed with a strip of just-right crackling and teams well with a side of roasted brussels sprouts with a mustard dressing.

A special of a meringue sandwich filled with passionfruit curd, cream and scattered with toasted almonds rounds out a rustic meal in an appealing, low-key setting.

Must-eat dish: Overnight wood-roast pork shoulder