When was the last time you saw a glass of wine for $6, apart from the ’80s?

The finely priced 100ml pours of the extensive range of estate wines is just one of the surprises at Brown Brothers’ signature restaurant in Milawa.

Local mustard-whipped butter with airy ciabatta to start is another. So, too, the generosity of portions that might include goat’s cheese croquettes with celeriac and walnut crumble to start, bright and perky Provencale veg with two cuts of lamb to follow, or crispy-skinned barramundi with cauliflower puree that’s good as is, but then elevated to heights by the smoked cod polpette served with. Best-in-class chips are a must-order side.

To finish, a prune and frangipane tart with brown sugar ice cream and gingerbread crumbs seals the deal in the most delightful way — especially when paired with a splash of the equally delightful moscato white gold. Country cooking with class that’s completely enjoyable? No surprises there.

Must eat dish: crispy-skinned barramundi