It’s hard to imagine fighting fit Brighton Icebergers settling in for a leisurely lunch after their morning dip in the Middle Brighton Baths.

Should they ever feel inclined, The Baths Upstairs Restaurant will reward them with hearty food, seriously good wines and a wide angle view of their preferred swimming hole. A lot of us have already discovered the charms of this recently refurbished place, not the least families who are well served with a sprightly Kids Menu (12 and under).

Beer-battered fish and chips with crushed peas is clearly the crowd favourite, but The Baths kitchen punches out more adventurous fare as well. Roasted barramundi comes with braised witlof and a tarragon veloute; meltingly soft braised beef cheek sits atop a reef of creamy mash; and a cassoulet of confit duck leg is well stocked with beans and sausage.

Portions are generous, so an entrée of mushroom risotto with mascarpone or smoked eel with glazed turnips may suffice. Still, you’d be wise to leave room for cheese – an enticing list – and dessert. Not even an Iceberger could resist the ‘Floating Island’ with caramel brittle and toasted almonds.

Must-eat dish: Cassoulet of confit duck leg