Opening gambits don’t get much better than Bar Carolina’s tiramisu. A show-stopping update on the classic with a smoking, smashable white-chocolate orb hiding coffee jelly and mascarpone, it’s very good.

Owner Joe Mammone knows his stuff, with this, his first south-side foray, evoking the good bones and lived-in charm of his two CBD restaurants, Il Bacaro and Sarti.

Long and narrow, the room is clubby and cosy, (with a neighbouring cafe and rooftop cocktail and wine bar in the works), although perhaps the best service is saved for the regulars.

Pity, because the house-made pasta (especially the thick spaghetti lavished with crayfish and chilli) and wine from an easy-to-navigate list could be worth crossing town for.

Must-eat dish: Tiramisu