Restaurant or nightclub? In this neon-pink light it can be a little hard to tell.

We are, of course, talking about Chin Chin, the famous Melbourne import, known for its punchy Asian fare and its two-hour-long queues.

Housed in one of Sydney’s most sought-after addresses, the historic Griffiths Teas building has been given a makeover like it never saw coming, from Chin Chin’s signature pink bunny ears to Jason Ebeyer’s cyber erotic art.

Like its big sister down south, much of the modern Thai menu has been firebombed by chilli, from lip-tingling chicken wings, pepped with spicy Sichuan salt, to a juicy bug tail stir-fry, its stretchy noodles slick with a numbing hellfire oil.

For those who enjoy punishment, go the blistered strip of pork belly, carefully crackled on the kitchen’s custom-made rotisserie.  While the wobbly flesh is safe to scoff, it’s the innocent-looking green relish, a scud chilli death sauce, that will blow your head clean off.

Relief comes in the form of a cooling plate of pickles, golden flatbreads, which are like a chewy bandage for the mouth, or a soothing salve of butter chicken curry, sweetly tempered with yoghurt and lime.

Otherwise, a cold compress from the bar will do. Cocktails can be a little kooky. There’s a controversial ham and pineapple concoction, fruity and tropical with a smack of lardo-washed rum, as well as a tangy dragonfruit brew, finished with a foamy head of seeds.

The wine list is far-reaching and remarkably well-priced, in particular the wines on tap, which can be ordered by the carafe.

And if that’s not worth a chin chin, then we don’t know what is.

Must-eat dish: Chilli salt chicken wings with sweet fish sauce and lime