Call us old fashioned but we warm to a restaurant that sends out house-baked loafs in a linen bag, that serves dishes on antique crockery, that trundles out a cheese trolley.

That restaurant is Epocha. The name means “a moment in time’’ and co-owners Angie Giannakodakis and Guy Holder have set the clock somewhere in the analog age with a Euro-leaning menu and wine list that “nourishes the soul”.

This is not to suggest Epocha — housed in a Victorian terrace — is a land that time forgot. Far from it. On a midweek evening, its candle-twinkling dining room was teeming with couples sharing dishes that owed as much to the past as the present.

Here, a beetroot salad with fromage frais and walnuts. There, pan-fried gnocchi with globe artichoke, lemon and nettle.

Holder will steer you towards just the right Spanish white or Armenian red to accompany your well-executed Berkshire pork cutlet (with fennel, quince, lentils and radicchio) or the “nostalgic” roast served each Sunday.

Desserts range from a prettily coloured rose sabayon to a dark chocolate delice. Whatever you do, leave room for the glorious cheeses and their great shards of lavoche.

Quirky? Yes, Epocha is one of a kind. Time you checked it out.

Must eat dish: Berkshire pork cutlet