Quietly going about its work amongst a throng of suburban businesses, this Randwick newbie is delivering a smart, sophisticated dining experience free of ego and extravaganza, but big on value, thanks to clever, considered cooking of quality Aussie ingredients.

It means you can feel just as comfortable pulling up a pew at the bar and grabbing a quick Wednesday night dinner, or going all out and letting the chef take you on a journey with the tasting menu.

Step behind the white sheer curtains where copper pendant lighting, exposed brick walls and white timber provide a smart yet casual setting for Emile Avramides and Micheal Tran to deliver their spin on contemporary cuisine with real flare.

Whipped buttermilk ricotta and crisp chicken skin top charcoal baked potatoes. White radish and lime oil help bring out the beauty of slightly seared kingfish, and fresh curd makes a great companion for wild boar salami. Seared Maremma duck breast wades in a bitter orange puree, while a chocolate marquise will have you wondering how on earth you got a local this good.  

Must eat: Spatchcock, honey, cumin, sweetcorn