Goodbye Taxi Dining Room, hello Taxi Kitchen.

Yes, a new broom is sweeping through this Federation Square fixture. And in line with its more pragmatic title, picked out in canary yellow neon, Taxi Kitchen has banished the tablecloths and orb-like chandeliers that once gave this lofty room a fine dining edge.

What’s left is a friendlier space offering sharper views of the city, the architecture and chef Tony Twitchett’s lively cooking. Taxi’s latest menu hails dishes from across the Far East — from a cold soba noodle salad with pickled mushrooms to an okra and coconut yellow curry with crispy rice cakes.

Diners are supplied with chopsticks but fingers are best for the Szechuan duck, sticky with dark caramel. The six-course tasting “journey’’ is the smoothest way to go, and smoother still if you buy into Taxi’s Victorian-only wine list.

The surprises keep coming with playful desserts: tea-poached stone fruit coddled in yuzu curd, then a lime and coconut sorbet sunk deep into a passionfruit souffle.

Transports of delight? For sure.

Must eat dish: Szechuan duck