Since 2012 their humble cellar door has been a must-stop on any Macedon region wine tour.

Their delicate sparkling blanc de blanc through to big Bendigo shiraz are available to taste, along with the Fools on the Hill pinot and chardonnay — named after what locals called founder Graeme when he planted pinot on the coldest site in one of the coldest wine regions in the country.

About 18 months ago the cellar door gained an equally humble dining room, and it’s here that a rustic la famiglia-style sharing feast is served for lunch.

There’s nothing like the smell of roasting meats to get the tummy rumbling and that’s the glorious aroma that hits us upon entering the small dining room.

Chef Cameron McKenzie serves up a three-course “feed me” menu that starts with some top charcuterie that comes courtesy of the gleaming red slicer on the bar and his Max & Delilah smallgoods company.

This day, a wooden board comes laden with slivers of delicate peppercorn salami, fennel-rubbed lonza (cured pork loin), and salchichon, along with a pot of excellent Max & Delilah chicken liver pate to spread on charred, olive oil drizzled crostini. The accompaniments — exceptional pickled zucchini and onions and piccalilli — provide deliciously sharp counter to the meats.

It’s a great start that’s as generous as the half chook, roasted on the spit over charcoal and served with sides, that follows.

The chicken is beautifully roasted, tender and succulent, and with a lovely smokiness that a bright salsa verde complements with class. Late-season zucchini plucked from the patch out back and braised with corn and roasted squash finishes the plate. A bowl of roasted chats and a rustic braise of rainbow chard, garlic and chunky prosciutto completes a table of country style. To finish, a terrific panna cotta with proper wobble adorned with wild strawberries and small blackberries, and a big hunk of Roquefort, provide the perfect full stop.

It’s estate wine all the way, with the Musk chardonnay, Macedon Ranges pinot and Bendigo shiraz and cabernet all offered by glass and bottle for just $10 mark-up on cellar door prices. Tea and coffee are, interestingly, deemed too demanding on the palate and not offered.

Like being welcomed into a friend’s home, service is efficient and friendly. Wines are poured at the table, and the kitchen keeps pace.

If you can drag your eyes from the view over the lake to the vines, windows in the dining room look down into the working winery below.

The “feed me” option, at $55, is great value for the portions and cooking, though paper napkins cheapen the otherwise elegant offering.

Very solid, enjoyable homely cooking that’s easy to like. The only fools on the hill, it seems, are those who pass this dining room by.

This review originally appeared on heraldsun.com.au.