Most canteens need a makeover of the Clayton Wells kind. At Chippendale’s industrial-chic A1 Canteen, this all-day eatery expels all memories of soggy salad sandwiches and dry chocolate chip muffins. Wells’ flair with flavour upgrades everything from scrambled eggs (curried and served with LP’s sausages) to the sandwich that began a veritable movement in Australia, the muffuletta: a three-meat sandwich with neat layers of marinated artichoke, provolone cheese and peppers encased by a crusty white baguette. Dinner service is casual dining done right, with easy share plates of cured meats, like wafer-thin slivers of Serrano ham simply scattered with thyme leaves and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, and a globe of Vannella burrata served with a tangy salad of pickled eggplant and crunchy pangrattato. A daily changing pasta menu is a great mid-week option (with a glass of wine included in the price) or splash out on more interesting main courses like Hiramasa kingfish collars, well seasoned in espelette pepper and a punchy curry leaf cream. Balancing an all-day offering has its challenges, but Wells knows how to deliver and he does it again at A1.