Impeccably trained waitstaff are armed with an insightful knowledge of the menu that journeys from Egypt to Saudi Arabia, Yemen to Iraq and beyond.

One of the most exciting and innovative dishes is the waraq simsim, creamy golden sea urchin resting atop cumin-spiced rice and a glossy sesame leaf, while a meltingly tender lamb neck shawarma is served with tarator, pickles and Saida saj, a crepe-like Levantine flatbread that soaks up the juices and acts as a vessel – no need for cutlery here.

While it’s easy to be enthralled by the food on the plate and wine in the glass (the B-Qã Rosé from the Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, is a solid match for the flavour itinerary), AALIA’s interior is also part of the journey. The natural textures, warm lighting and sculptural mushroom-like curves of the ceiling are reminiscent of the restaurant’s home within Harry Seidler’s Modernist MLC Centre, visible through floor-to-ceiling windows. The soft, inviting space has the same warm welcome and sculptural wow of Farag’s menu, reminding you that this is something worth leaving home for.