We have certain expectations when it comes to Italian food — red sauce, an overflowing bread basket and big serves. Acme ignores all that.

Chef Mitchell Orr has solid Italian training, including a stint at Osteria Francescana in Italy, currently rated the world’s best restaurant, so he definitely knows the rules, which makes him qualified to break them.

Here Italian dishes have an Asian twist, think spaghetti with fish balls and kimchi, burrata with poached rhubarb and konbu or fettuccine with roasted peppers and seaweed.

But not everything has an Asian influence.

Take the baloney sandwich, which is glorified devon.

Yes devon. Acme is so achingly hip that it heralded the return of the processed sandwich filler. Diners happily pay five bucks a pop for warm folds of mortadella, which is just the Italian version of devon, on a potato bun and now the stuff has popped up on menus all over town. But don’t leave without trying the malteser ice cream with candied bacon. It’s not Italian, but it is delicious.

Must eat: Macaroni, pig’s head, egg yolk