One of the prettiest rooms in Adelaide, this restaurant-cum-funky-salon is always jam-packed so book ahead, ideally for a seat at the kitchen bar.

Africola’s evolution from township canteen celebrating dishes from chef Duncan Welgemoed’s native South Africa to smart North African diner has been seamless.

The menu is small, flavours huge, with an emphasis on pickling, fermenting and smoking, and the value for money tremendous.

Welgemoed brings his alchemic touch to the simplest of ingredients: a whole cabbage, blackened to within an inch of its life, dusted with salted plum; Goolwa cockles cooked in their own briny juices flavoured with fermented chilli and smoked garlic; charred green peppers dipped in a creamy black cod roe.

Dishes are unpretentious so feel free to lick your fingers when tucking into the spicy white bread sandwich of crispy skin chicken served alongside the drippings or flank steak with a superior gentleman’s relish, bone marrow on the side.

For pud have the jaffa torte, and bring an adventurous palate; the small wine list takes a walk on the wild side.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.