Coco Channel’s motto may have been to take one thing off before walking out the door, but chef Brad Jolly’s philosophy is to the contrary. The elaborate, generously proportioned, protein-heavy dishes at his riverside fine diner are layer upon layer of ingredient and flavour, showcasing his creative flair and deft range of techniques.

Take, for example, a main of blushing pink lamb loin crowned with meltingly tender braised lamb shoulder, met by roasted parsnips, spiced lentils, caramelised fig, dollops of buttery mash, greens and all manner of purees and jus. The dishes may be of food-coma proportions, but Jolly’s cooking is the type of hearty, plentiful fare that has found a loyal following among the corporate lunch set and diners with something to celebrate.

Desserts also bear the marks of Jolly’s munificence. A stunning honey cheesecake capped with a layer of fig jelly is completely satisfying as is, despite the embellishment of an intense chocolate sorbet, fresh figs, squirts of fig jelly, macadamia crumble and vanilla sable.

Finding wines to complement these myriad elements could be tricky, but the restaurant’s smart, yet primarily traditional list of popular labels offers plenty of matching opportunities.

Service may be a little slow at times and the décor ready for a facelift, so perhaps this is where Coco’s advice could come in handy, as the food itself doesn’t need any help walking out the door.

Must-eat dish: Honey cheesecake
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