The Alcott is one of a new breed of chic clubs. Norths Collective, the brand behind North Sydney Leagues Club and The Greens in North Sydney, took over the former Lane Cove Club in 2016 and has spent big bucks renovating the tired venue.

When The Alcott reopened in June 2018, Pony Design Co had completely transformed the club. In comes plenty of pale timber and greenery, dining zones, comfortable seating areas, a Spritz bar, function spaces and a terrace complete with bench seating, cushions, potted succulents and because it’s winter, lots of rugs, heaters and mulled wine.

There’s still a healthy respect for the site and its various incarnations from private home to club over its 100-year history. The Alcott means ‘from the old cottage’ and a 1920s sandstone block has been built into the fabric of the contemporary redesign. History buffs can follow that timeline, which has been recreated on a back wall in one of the dining areas.

The food is as contemporary as the new look. Sous chef Simon Flanders is now head chef, taking over the top job from Richard Slarp. This chatty Brit spent 21 years working in the UK before moving to Australia. He has done a local tour of duty working in top end venues like Quay and has plenty of club experience in huge venues like Castle Hill RSL.

Flanders’ first task in his senior role has put the finishing touches to the new menu.

“The philosophy is fresh, local and sustainable produce,” Simon Flanders says.

“At the same time we have to understand what people want.”

Wanting translates into a little bit of everything from shared boards to inventive mains and decadent desserts. Pass on comfort zone chicken burger and chips and try the grilled chicken with pickled mushrooms, straw potatoes, caramelised onion and toasted chestnuts instead.

Alternatively go for something meaty and satisfying like pork tenderloin which is wrapped in pancetta and served with crumbly black morcilla, a Spanish blood sausage. Two veg, a creamy carrot purée and a crunchy Brussels sprout slaw, cut through the richness.

The kitchen is also serving a hearty modern Mediterranean winter fish dish. Crispy skinned barramundi and SA mussels topped with an almond and romesco sauce sit on a haricot bean and chorizo cassoulet.

You can’t go wrong with Flanders’ tapas menu, which pops with colour and has bags of flavour. Line up a selection like veal and ricotta meatballs in tomato sugo, fried cauliflower with smoked paprika and smoked eggplant or even something deliciously simple like Turkish bread with a trio of dips.

But don’t ask Flanders to choose his favourite dish. He won’t. Dishes are just like children and you can’t choose between them, he says.